The big heart and happy kitchen of my surrogate dad: a birthday memory

I inherited my friendship with Mike Elsner from my father, who’d been friends with Mike’s dad for about thirty years. Sid and Dad met at Ohio State, where both took journalism classes en route to becoming working journalists. Sometimes I wonder if I wasn’t at least as close to Sid as I was to his son.

I slept over a lot when I was a kid. I loved the more “lived in” feel of the Elsner house. Nothing was neat as a pin. T-shirts and jockey shorts were shoved in a drawer in an unfolded jumble. You might have to make your own dinner, as Jean, Mike’s mom, spent time on a lounge chair in the living room reading magazines and smoking L&Ms, and was not an avid cook. That was fine, as one of the delights of the Elsner house was to traipse downstairs and open up a huge freezer locker Sid had installed, and therefrom pluck a delight unbeknownst to the Gitlin house, such as a TV dinner or pot pie or luscious chocolate-covered éclair, having now only to use the oven or wait for thawing. Food at the Elsner house was always better. Everything was better. I once called my mother on the phone from the Elsners’, proclaiming, “The milk’s even better here!” Turns out Mom and Jean got the same milk, from the same milk man.

I think about food when I remember the Elsner house. Sid made me and Mike breakfast once, a breakfast I’d never had before. It’s stayed with me forever. Blueberry pancakes, with real maple syrup out of a tin from Vermont, and bacon. We always just had cereal at my house, sometimes eggs. I’d encountered Log Cabin and Mrs. Butterworth, but nothing like this. Don’t get me wrong. There was nothing shabby about Mom’s poached eggs on toast. But that big, exotic breakfast Sid fashioned on the stove top, amidst the warming clutter of that kitchen, using something I’d never seen before, a cast-iron pan, transcended all previous breakfasts for this goggle-eyed, slavering visitor.

A dad who goes nuts on his kids can still be a great guy at heart. (Photo filched from istock.com.)

It is Sid with whom I associate the main warmth of the house, but he was the butt of jokes and derision from his three sons and wife. He was angry a lot, made imperious demands. So the boys rallied around her. Couldn’t have been as bad as my father’s weird rages, provenance ever unknown. Sid worked as an editor at Cleveland’s big newspaper, The Plain Dealer, and came home wanting things just right. A corpulent man, he was powerful; he once was so angry he broke a wooden cutting board, slamming it against a tabletop.

One night I was over there with Mike when we heard a roar downstairs.

“Oh shit,” Mike said and ran down to the kitchen, where his father bawled him out. Turns out Mike hadn’t thawed the lamb chops for when Sid got home from work. Mike skulked blackly back upstairs, muttering how he hated his father.

I blush to report I had the shamelessness to enquire: “So … can we still make something to eat?”

Still red from Sid’s rebuke, Mike glanced at me with a mixture of simmered anger and fresh incredulity. “He said we could have peanut butter, is all.”

Mike was flabbergasted when I went down there. We’d planned on making TV dinners, probably salisbury steak, my favorite.

But a creamy Peter Pan on Millbrook would do just fine.

Sid was in the kitchen when I got there. I could feel the lessening steam.

He was calm and affectionate as he bade me sit at the kitchen banquette and, with him serving me, have the peanut butter sandwich and a glass of milk. I did feel a mite embarrassed, but something about the ritual felt right, like Mike’s dad and I were cementing our own bond.

I guess I faced the danger of an angry Sid because, deep down, I wasn’t afraid of him. I understood him. Yes, he was irascible, but I felt sorry for how he was always the outcast in the household, standing as he did outside the closed corporation of Jean and Mike and the two older sons and their collective rebuke.

One of the things about Sid that might have made him laughable was that, every time he had a birthday, he invited people over, or maybe it was just the immediate family, but the thing is, he gave them presents. When I first heard this it made me sad. Like Sid figured nobody’d throw him a party or get him anything, so he used the day to buy into the affections of others.

I don’t think that anymore.

I’m having people over for a little 70th birthday party, celebrating my descent into senescence, and they are forbidden to bring gifts.

“I just want friends over,” I said on the phone. “Barb and a girlfriend are cooking Mexican, so there’ll be great food. All you gotta do is sing happy birthday when I blow out the candles.”

It is better to give than to receive. I’m not going so far as to give them stuff like Sid did, but it’s in the same spirit, it’s about them. Not about greedy little me getting things.

Anyway, it’s not like I’m some eight-year-old wanting a GI Joe or a slingshot or a yo-yo. Friendship is enough.

Blueberry pancakes and bacon: a culinary memory ever since I sat down to it for the first time in the kitchen of Sid Elsner, my second father. (Photo filched from istockphoto.com.)

Sometimes you win

It wasn’t until I’d got back to Arizona and given up on the thing that Lufthansa got my bag back.

Sky Harbor Airport called. They’d be glad to send it up to Prescott, on United. All I had to do was drive to Prescott airport and claim it.

The United guy looked on with amusement as I grabbed the poor, battered grip — many-tagged, multi-destinationed – like it was some long lost friend, zipping it open to make sure items I remembered through a haze were there. The toiletries bag and brown shoes and shirts and pants and underwear and socks were there. Odd, but now it felt like I’d just seen them minutes ago.

The good news got better.

After Barb’s astute, unstinting emailing of scanned receipts, Lufthansa agreed to reimburse me for costs incurred by my loss of the bag. I’d had to buy stuff aplenty, testing the impoverished fund of Italian I’d picked up before the trip from free online lessons. Outfit called Language Transfer. Not a bad deal, if you discipline yourself. I guess I only disciplined myself so far. Fortunately, Europe is a place where people learn more than one language. English is one of them.

As I’ve said here, I fell in love with Italy. That’s saying a lot, as I was sick a lot. I want to take this opportunity to apologize to readers who, trying to inhale the romantic bouquet of the seductions and wonders of southern Italy, had to block their nose against my dogged chronicling about incessant diarrhea. I’ve got a problem with withholding the truth. Sometimes you should.

Me and my beloved at table after the Sicilian cooking challenge of Chef Massimo

ANYWAY, I’M HOME. Back to my routine, and my job. I love Safeway, even find myself in the position of wise elder amongst all the drug-addled young’uns, many of whom I’ve developed some affection and concern for. It’s like being a teacher again.

One tattooed girl in her late teens or early twenties has snarled and bitched about being here ever since she arrived. She glowered at customers, scaring them away from the sandwich bar she would rather not work at, though it’s part of the expected skill set of the deli clerk. Customers complained to management; management slapped her wrist. You have to murder someone to get fired, and I’m not sure that would be a dealbreaker. Deli is taxing. Too many chores. And so it’s hard to get and keep people. It’s known storewide as the hardest job there. Few choose it. Capping the mess, the hiring pool is rehab houses, not exactly bastions of reliable citizenry.

This young lady who’d been chastened greeted me across the counter when I showed up recently in gym shorts, T-shirt, and sneakers, straight from back-and-biceps day at Fitness for 10, to get horseradish cheddar for sandwiches to go with the roast beef Barb had brought home.

Hiking in Williams. Man, does my dog love nature.

“I got my first star,” she said, as unenthusiastically as possible. That’s a good behavior badge you receive when a customer tells management how helpful you were. You can pin the little metal insignias to your Safeway cap. I had a few on once, then took them off. Didn’t want to look like some dork or kiss-ass.

“Way to go!”

I knew it meant something to her. Struggling with addiction, an unwed mother since 17, she needed to feel rewarded for her concession to humility. But, true to character, she had a hard time mustering her usual sarcasm when telling me about her elevation to the ranks of esteemed employees.

Another young friend of mine behind the counter, who helped by getting me cole slaw, called out to me, “Hi, Bob!” Adding, “I hate it here.” Her mantra.

Trail 9451, Prescott National Forest. The trees don’t dwarf you; they elevate you.

“Yeah, I feel like that a lot too,” I said. “Yet somehow we keep coming back. Masochism, I guess.” I got my two items, tagged and ready for checkout. “You gals don’t work too hard.” Waved and left.

It felt good to banter with them. You know you like your job when you go back to the workplace on days off.

BUT HOW LONG do I do this? I’ve already dropped to 24 hours from 32. I sometimes worry I was more valued when I closed. It’s never been as gleaming clean for the mornings crew since. But that gig aggravated my shoulder.

I’m mornings now myself. Learning new skills.

Like the sandwich bar. And, at the risk of bragging, I have stepped up. I can even make breakfast burritos and Philly cheesesteaks. It’s not that tough if you just relax back there. Ask the guy what bread and condiments and meats and cheeses he wants, and make the damn thing.

Perhaps more challenging are those $7.99 All American and Italian subs we offer on an island in front of the deli counter. You follow the build sheet, slicing the meats and cheeses and long loaves, getting the lettuce and garnishes, and it ain’t no thang. The hard part is wrapping your loaded creation using this maddening cling-wrap machine. There should be a Three Stooges or Lucy segment showing someone struggling with this infernal task, plastic wrapped around their elbow or head while the sub spills apart. But I’m getting there.

Barb and Scout on the Williams trail. I have a sneaking suspicion the dog likes her better than me. Must be a girl thing.

I spend days off hiking Scout, and Barb and I also hike her together. I experience bliss in these Arizona woods. Mostly Prescott National Forest. But we got up to Williams lately. I love the piney frontier feel and coolness of Williams.

Next vacation, dog goes too. That’s what the RV is for. Scout loves jumping up on the bed in back and watching the highway go by out the window as she drowses off, motorhome rumbling beneath her. I’d like to head all the way up into Canada, to Banff. Plug the motorhome in at a campsite I found online, at Lake Louise, a hamlet in Alberta. How I got the idea, it’s referenced by The Byrds in “Blue Canadian Rockies,” off the seminal hippie country album Sweetheart of the Rodeo.

Fueled on drive-through burgers and Cokes riding north, my stomach ought to hold up just fine.

Ciao.